Top Three Tips for Knitters and Crocheters – Part 3 – Gauge
Ok, so we’ve finally reached the third part of my “Top Three Tips” series, and this one is the thing that probably causes the most frustration in knitting and crochet:
Gauge.
Or tension.
Or that annoying little square everyone pretends they don’t skip. 👀
We all feel like Woolbert here:
I know. Nobody wants to stop and swatch when all you really want to do is dive into the project. But if you’ve ever finished a sweater only to discover it would fit either a toddler or a small horse, gauge is usually the culprit!
The important thing to remember is this:
Gauge is not about whether you knit or crochet “right” or “wrong”.
Everyone naturally works at a different tension. Patterns are simply written based on one person’s tension, so the goal is making your stitches match theirs.
So how do we actually check gauge properly?
Don’t Cheat the Swatch!
One of the most common mistakes is casting on exactly the number of stitches the pattern gauge says and then measuring the whole thing.
For example, if the pattern says:
22 stitches and 30 rows = 4 inches / 10cm
…many people cast on 22 stitches and work 30 rows.
The problem is that the stitches around the edges of your work are often uneven or tighter/looser than the middle, which gives you an inaccurate measurement.
Instead, make a swatch that is larger than the measurement area.
So for a 4 inch / 10cm gauge square, cast on enough stitches to make something around 6 inches / 15cm wide and work a few extra rows too.
That way, you can measure from the centre of the swatch where your tension is most consistent.
And yes — you should block your swatch the same way you plan to treat the finished item! Fibres can change massively after washing and blocking.
How to Measure Gauge
Lay your swatch flat without stretching it and use a ruler or gauge tool to count how many stitches and rows fit into 4 inches / 10cm.
This is where our little Yarnie’s Friend comes in really handy!
Because it has both inch and centimetre cut-outs, you can work a smaller swatch if you need and simply place it over your fabric and count the stitches and rows visible through the opening. Much easier than trying to hold a tape measure still while counting tiny stitches!
It’s also brilliant for checking wraps per inch from last week’s email too — I love tools that multitask. 😄
What If Your Gauge Is Wrong?
This is the important bit — and thankfully the fix is usually simple.
If you have TOO MANY stitches:
Your stitches are too small/tight.
➡ Try going up a hook or needle size.
If you have TOO FEW stitches:
Your stitches are too large/loose.
➡ Try going down a hook or needle size.
Even changing by just 0.5mm can make a surprising difference.
A Few Extra Gauge Tips
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Measure after blocking, not before.
- Check both stitch gauge and row gauge where possible.
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Different materials can affect your tension — metal needles often knit looser than wooden ones.
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Your tension can even change depending on mood, stress, tiredness, or whether you’re binge-watching something dramatic while knitting!
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If you substitute yarn, always check gauge again, even if the yarn weight sounds similar.
- Measure more than once! Try measuring in a few different places, this way you'll be able to take the average in case your gauge varies or the yarn is uneven.
And finally:
If a pattern is fitted (especially sweaters!), DO NOT skip the gauge swatch. Future-you will thank you.
So there we are — my top three tips for getting better results from your knitting and crochet projects:
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Yarn substitutions
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Finishing and blocking
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Gauge
These are the things that make the biggest difference between “homemade” and “beautifully handmade”.
I hope this little series has been helpful! 💙